Windows 10 Logitech profiler issue (May 2016). Further down this page ( link to share http://edracing.com/win10g27 )
NEW: G27 Wheel Hub Circuit Board Layout thread by James E. B.
James is going to send me more info, in the meantime his current image
2015s4 information added to FFB including problems with Logitech.
Since iRacing changed the boot process, Logitech profiler may not detect iRacing is running. They are attempting to make a work-around. Read notes on my FFB page for more info.
Other G27 information & youtube clips further down.
Broken encoder, try fixing with a WASHER further down.
Replacement Optical Brass Encoder by Cmlaserservice further down.
To reset/clear calibration in sim:
(make a copy first) delete controls.cfg and joyCalib.yaml in folder /Documents/iRacing.
This may also reset some keys that you assigned in options.
If you have ticked "Use Custom Controls for This Car" you may need to delete
controls.cfg in iRacing/setups/%car% folder as well.
(See BRAKE issue further down).
Logitech Profiler issue on their website (3/2015).
I used this FTP link to download Logitech profiler for win7 x64 (lgs510_x64.exe).
If your G27 FFB or 6 wheel buttons are not recognised, check your profiler is working.
"Where is the Profiler?"
On Win 7 taskbar "Logitech Profiler". On Start Menu it's "Logitech Gaming Software".
Logitech profiler issues.
* Game specific profiles can be problematic; using a GLOBAL setting is recommended.
* Try deleting all profiles from C:/Users/USER-NAME/AppData/Local/Logitech/
* If your wheel drops to 360 degrees rotation during a race...
G25/G27 change wheel lock setting on the fly - further down.
G27 FFB settings updated 2016s1 for new 'damping' & tweaks (noted on FFB page).
2016s3 added Wheel Profile.
Logitech G27 Wheel - iRacing FFB SETTINGS.
• Devote some time to tweaking your iRacing FFB settings, otherwise it will be crap.
• Too complicated & confusing? Definitely! Very rewarding when you get it right too.
Interesting post by David Tucker. G27 outputs about 2.5 Nm of torque. Wimpiest racecar 10 Nm.
• Logitech Profiler Settings:
Set profiler to "Defaults".
Overall Effects Strength: 100% 106% was the OLD way before we had a "min force" setting in-sim.
Spring Effect Strength: 100% (does nothing in iRacing - see notes below image)
Damper Effect Strength: 100% (see Damping in sim-options)
Centering Spring: Unchecked (using spring can mask/hide FFB)
Report Combined Pedals: Unchecked
Rotation: 900° (by default it may be 360 degrees which limits your inputs)
Allow Game To Adjust: Checked
In years past, iRacing's FAQ recommended setting "Spring Effect Strength" to 0.
Many members reportedly still set 0 as recommended in Clayton's old/locked FFB thread.
From conversation with David Tucker (iRacing staff): Spring Effect Strength does nothing in iRacing:
“Spring Effect Strength controls the peak force of any spring effect that we
happen to play. We don’t play any spring effects at all, so it does
nothing and I recommend setting it to the default so that other games
can still use a spring effect if they want. In particular rFactor can
use a spring effect". Centering Spring Strength:
“Centering
Spring Strength is a generic spring effect that is always played on
your wheel. By default this gets turned off as soon as we connect to the
wheel, but you can force it on by checking “Enable Centering Spring in
Force Feedback Games”. I like
to keep this at the default of 100%, that causes your wheel to center
when you are not running iRacing, while still allowing us to turn it
back off (unless you force it on). In both cases the defaults work just
fine."
• Based on (iRacing staff) David Tucker's posts.
Updated for 2016s1, 12/2015.
Updated with information from David's post June 2014.
Originally from p44 of forum thread plus a few of my comments:
Recalibrate wheel in sim after setting to 900 in profiler.
If calibrated properly you'll have 1:1 rotation in iRacing.
G27s calibrate to less than 900 degrees (related post by DT | screenshot).
My own wheel calibrates to "872".
If you have forced a 900 calibration, watch the small wheel in options while turning the wheel.
At first it may look 1:1, turn more and you may see the difference.
I saw a big difference in a range of the wheel I didn't believe affected me - I was wrong.
I was testing in the MX5 @ LRP, after recalibrating I was 0.2 off the season's WR.
I may use a 'set square' to check the "Logitech" wording is 90 degrees.
Got a better idea?
When calibrating the wheel in iRacing's sim:
1. Turn wheel all the way left, then all the way right. Sets min & max rotation.
2. Turn wheel to centre to set centre position.
3. Turn 90 degrees left (counter clockwise / 9 o'clock). Sets direction and degrees.
* Do any step wrong and your wheel won't calibrate accurately.
Logitech G27 will calibrate to less than 900 degrees.
* If having problems, (copy then remove) controls.cfg and joyCalib.yaml in folder /Documents/iRacing
You then have a clean slate to start calibration again.
* Some problem solving ideas are mentioned further down this page; including: Plug into USB ports on rear of computer, (I've read to avoid USB3 ports).
From David T's (iRacing staff) Wheel Check threadpost for 2016s1 Take the defaults for everything but add in 10% Damping - see 2016s1 notes on FFB page
Set 'min force' slider to 10-15% (mine is at 22 after using 'wheel check').
(For DFGT users: I've read 4-7 is common).
Leave damping slider at 0 in sim (it's a left over from Nascar 2003).
Repeating for 2016s1, suggested "Damping" setting is 10%. See FFB for notes.
Linear force unchecked. "You don't need linear force unless you have a super fancy wheel"
Set the force slider between 8 and 20 depending on car and track. 12 is a good start point.
This is adjustable on track in the F9 black box.
Optionally:
• Use the F meter (F key to see black box) while driving to adjust the force level to maximise force. Bottom F bar is FFB (LQSPF faq pdf inked on Rookies under Keyboard Shortcuts).
Adjust the force level on the fly with the F9 black box (use keyboard arrows to navigate in box).
You want to turn the force up till you just start to see red in the corners.
The key is to not saturate or the wheel will feel lifeless.
• Try linear mode to reduce the magnitude of smaller forces, you will need to crank up the force slide to compensate. (Linear mode will potentially give you less feel on a G27).
• Dial in min force setting using "wheel check" or by feel. (I've tested 4x G27s with "wheel check", results range from 12% to 22%)
The goal is to get the wheel to apply a smooth steady force while turning back and forth through center point.
So turn this up till you start to feel a clunk, then dial it back down.
"Min force attempts to correct a flaw (or feature, it is intentionally put there) in some wheels where the wheel will not react to our FFB commands unless the force goes above some minimum amount. This is especially important on a Logitech G27 wheel, those wheels need 10-20% min force in order to get them to react to any force at all. If min force is set too high, then the wheel will chatter when driving straight. So the simplest way to set it is just to try 10% and then 5% or 20% depending on if the wheel chatters or not, going back and forth until you get close enough to a reasonable number. You can also dig out wheel check and do some work to figure out the exact number, but in general you don't need that much precision, getting to within 5% of the correct value is probably good enough".
"What you are looking for in any event is to feel for a clunk when you turn your wheel back and forth causing the force to change directions. If min force is to low there will be no clunk, if it is too high there will be a clunk. Just right is just before it clunks."
• [Force Feedback] steeringFFBSmooth=1.0 (edit in app.ini - my preference 0.8)
2016s1 = "Behaves as it always does".
Prior to 2016s1: "This applies some smoothing to the FFB output, and is the only good way to stop a car that chatters too much from banging your hands to pieces. Damping will only make the problem worse, so use this instead. However before you apply smoothing make sure you are not overdoing it with the min force slider. The number is an odd one, you want to set it to 1/n where n is the number of samples to smooth, so 1/2 or 0.5 smooths two samples, 1/3 or 0.33 smooths 3 samples, 1/4 or 0.25 smooths 4 samples and so on. Going much past 1/5 or 0.2 is only going to add latency and not improve things at all for you. Oh and the default of 1/1 or 1 means one sample, or no smoothing at alle correct value is probably good enough".
• [Force Feedback] steeringDampingMaxPercent=0.0 (edit in app.ini - my preference 0.2)
"This is an experimental friction damper that I added in a season or two ago. It works really well on the G27 wheel to give it some weight and make it feel less plasticity, however it does not do much for belt driven wheel since they already have plenty of mechanical damping from the belts. Try a value of 0.2 and go up and down from there as needed."
See notes on FFB page.
(Prior to 2016s1) My preference was SteeringDampingMaxPercent=0.2, 2016s1 it's now the same as setting the Damping slider in sim options (not profiler) to 20%.
WHEEL PROFILE
2016s3: noted on FFB page - new Wheel Profiler thread (not to be confused with Wheel Check).
Link to land here: http://edracing.com/g27profile
David Tucker (iRacing staff) attached profiles of his wheels to his opening post, you should read the thread. The new feel is terrific! Let my stats do the talking - 2016s3 WR @ Summit Point (practice).
Late thoughts:
* How to view a .CSV file without Microsoft Excel... let's google it.
* I read suggestion to use OpenOffice, I haven't tried it.
* Before editing any settings, write down what you had, or
make a safe copy of the root files in /documents/iRacing/ (I do it regularly anyway).
My test with G27 S3 June 2016
(for ALL low-end wheels also read "Create your own..." further down):
I couldn't run the wheel tests so I downloaded the profile for David's wheel.
Download my copy of David's file in forceMapv1.zip or check David's thread for updates.
Note: Don't expect all wheels to have the same profile, like "Min force" they will vary.
Before joining a test session:
Get forceMap.csv (from the zip) then add it to /documents/iRacing/
(It sits the root of the folder, like app.ini and other files)
Now join a test session with a car / track / weather you know well Change settings in sim options
"Min force" set to 0. (I read that min force is baked into the profile, I was at 25%)
"Damping" I tried 10% (Based on changes to Damping 2016s1 I normally use 20%)
"Damping" behaviour was changed 2016s1 see FFB page
10% is down to personal preference for the G27 to make the wheel feel less plasticky
(Belt driven wheels already provide too much damping by the belt. Direct Drive wheels are direct).
"Strength" I doubled it. Eg from 10 to 20
"Use linear mode" unticked. (Mentioned elsewhere, it's not really necessary for this wheel) Testing On track
I was more in touch with the car.
My pedal inputs reflected better feedback from the wheel.
I was faster! Summation
Love it. Feels terrific. The car talks to me more. Placebo? Give it a go.
A member has mentioned they had "use custom controls for this car" enabled, they needed to place the file in documents/iRacing/setups/[carname].
A reply from DT: "Custom controls uses a custom force map per car, but in theory it should fall back on the base force map. I need to test that out"
Update: from 2016s3 patch 1 notes: - The "forcemap.csv" file will now attempt to load from the root iRacing folder if not found in a custom controls folder.
Using / testing multiple profiles:
From David's post. "If you want to do back to back comparisons you can run the sim in a window and add/remove the force map file from the Documents/iRacing/ folder. To force the sim to reload the file I believe you just have to open the settings dialog and close it again."
Edit: "you may need to make a change in the options screen to get us to do anything on exit, but it may be enough to uncheck/check any old box"
Create your own wheel profile - using Wheel Check.
I think it's reasonable to note this development is still a work in progress by David Tucker (iRacing staff).
I've previously posted on facebook about his findings and created Wheel Torque page.
David is looking for volunteers (wheels) so he can gather much more data - read his post.
Using the method I'm about to describe is not as reliable as the scale method described in the Wheel Profiler thread.
Quoting David: "This is not super accurate, and for the stronger wheels (CSW and better) it will be basically completely wrong, but it is better than nothing if you can't scrape up a postal scale."
When David has accrued enough data, I expect we will have much easier options / methods to use.
In the meantime, thank David for his help in understanding this....
WARNING: "Wheel Check" app can make your wheel turn very fast by itself
KEEP YOUR BODY PARTS & KIDS AWAY FROM THE WHEEL
Use Wheel Check app at your own risk
* Download WheelCheck (app attached to this post)
* Remember "Min force" is baked into the profile so set "Min force" in-sim options to 0. Related post.
> Open Wheel Check
> set "Max Count" to 10 instead of 50
> "Spring Force" dropdown, select "Step Log 2 (linear force test)" ( the wheel will turn by itself )
> When the wheel stops, a file is generated in your /Documents/ folder, similar to: "log2 2016-xx-xx xx-xx-xx.csv"
> Open the file, the column "deltaXDeg" are the numbers you'll need to work with and normalize (divide the column by the last entry)
The normalized output becomes the "in_pct" in your forceMap.csv file which you place in the root of /documents/iRacing/
Download my copy of David's forceMap.csv file in forceMapv1.zip and edit the "in_pct"
Example from my wheel/file:
(Update: no need for more than 2 decimal places on the in or out data).
WheelCheck
deltaXDeg
calculate
"in_pct"
0
divided by 164.9698=
0
0
divided by 164.9698=
0
12.03076
divided by 164.9698=
7.292707
44.60722
divided by 164.9698=
27.03963
82.12782
divided by 164.9698=
49.78355
93.60923
divided by 164.9698=
56.74326
101.3551
divided by 164.9698=
61.43856
110.1996
divided by 164.9698=
66.79987
121.1866
divided by 164.9698=
73.45987
139.1503
divided by 164.9698=
84.34899
164.9698
divided by 164.9698=
100
Then I replaced the "in_pct" column in David's file with my own normalized numbers and it looks like this.
Note: I've read the "vid" and "pid" are ignored. I can't confirm nor comment on that.
Confused? I got a headache just adding it here, tell me where to find better instructions.
For more detailed information, read the Wheel Profiler thread.
A later post (in Wheel Profiler thread) by David says:
"In fact using wheel check you can make a force map that has up to 512 steps in it.
I believe I always force the first entry in the in column to 0 and the last in the in column to 100, but the only thing I do on the out column is ensure that the forces always grow and never reverse direction (50% in is not producing a force greater than 60% in).
Also since the underlying force unit ranges form 0-10,000 then there is no point in having more than 2 places of precision on the in or out data."
Also note, David posted that he has code in place (for next release?) that will analyze your driving and adjust your force slider in the sim for you.
If you landed here - start at top of page for more G27 information
2014s2 update: DT's post refers to Assetto feel.
At the time he suggested app.ini changes:
[Force Feedback] steeringDampingMaxPercent=0.05
[Force Feedback] steeringFFBSmooth=0.3333
Related info & links on my FFB page. Based on feel only, I like steeringDampingMaxPercent=0.2, steeringFFBSmooth=0.8, linear off
Depending on track/car combo, I may use linear for rough tracks.
Hands only turn 90° - the virtual wheel won't turn more.
The animated hands have limited rotation which limits the virtual wheel's rotation. It doesn't affect your real steering inputs.
To see full rotation, turn off hands:
In Options > Replay > click on 'show driver arms' and select a different option.
Similar setting In Options > Graphic tab.
iRacing are working on the hands rotating more (Oct 2016).
Linear vs non linear: "The key between linear and non linear is that in linear mode red is bad and in non linear mode orange is bad on the 'F' meter". (Posted by DT Jan 2016).
Another related post by iRacing staff (David T Sept 2016)
"Orange means you are above about 85% (somewhere around there), red
means you are above 100% and actually clipping. Orange is significant
because when you are using the default non linear mode then about 85% is
when we really start compressing the signal so we can squeeze more in.
Anything above that point will have less detail than anything below it.
You want to see flashes of orange, not a steady orange color, think of
it as your headroom on a mixer, a little padding so mic pops and other
details don't cause clipping. Of course if you use linear mode then just
ignore it and make sure you have no red."
Old posts:
David T (iR staff) advocates off. Read David's forum post | screenshot. (4/2014)
A non-related thread, also debates linear vs non-linear for G27.
Since ffb updates were deployed, "linear" is reportedly best suited to high force wheels.
Non-linear can offer more feel for driver input with a low force wheel like the G27.
My preference: Non-linear.
• Brake calibration issue in iRacing sim:
After joining 1st session of the day, the brakes may lock-up easily in sim.
(When you unplug your Logitech wheel/pedals it forgets the endpoints - that's normal for Logitech).
Simple work-around: depress brake pedal before driving, then brake should behave normally.
Using a Bodnar usb cable (which remembers settings) avoids this problem.
If you need to do it for every session, I would think it's a different issue.
Leo Bodnar's G25/G27/DFGT/DFP standalone pedal adapter for increased pedal resolution.
Usage: Plug pedals into usb cable, then calibrate. Explained in a post on race2play.com. For me: filed.
Note, LeoBodnar.com hasn't replied to my email nor a friend's (Aug 2014) - I suggest contacting Bodnar before buying.
On the shifter, hold the two middle red buttons and press one of the 4 black buttons at top (the ones in diamond formation):
* Top: 240 degrees
* Right: 670 degrees
* Left: 450 degrees
* Bottom: 900 Default
If you know of more undocumented features, please let me know so they can be added.
• Extra Key Mappings:
Have you tried mapping a button to a shift key? A clever idea - post.
In essence, the poster has:
Mapped the left button (on his G25) as a shift button in Logitech profiler giving him a second function on other keys.
Eg Left button (shift) + paddles cycles through black boxes.
His right button is his mic but left and right buttons together is pit limiter.
He has done similar with buttons on his shifter so things like his D pad can be used to adjust black box settings.
Follow up post by David T explains you can do similar in sim (and it's buggy). Screenshot.
• Other G27 information & products:
March 2015, I needed to use this FTP link to download Logitech profiler for win7 x64 (lgs510_x64.exe).
Brass Optical Encoder / Sensor replacement for G25, G27 and Driving Force GT.
http://www.cmlaserservice.com. 2 types of optical brass encoders, 30 slot and original-type 60 slot.
The 2 types are not interchangeable, count your slots before ordering.
Logitech's newer wheels with 30 slot may have less on/off sequences translating into less precision.
I've read suggestion elsewhere that this may be offset by full quadrature encoding resulting in similar resolution.
A reply from cmlaserservice explained: "As I understand it, and this is strictly from practical observation
and having sold several hundred units,
but with no direct confirmation
from Logitech, that all G25s and “green box” G27s use the 60 slot version.
The “blue box” G27 uses the 30 slot unit".
Also note: "The encoders are manufactured a few microns tight. It is easy to fit with a small bit of high grit sand paper rolled up on a toothpick. Getting a loose one to stay put is a bit harder. The best solution for a loose one is “loctite” glue. It is designed for high heat environments so it doesn’t go soft when the FFB motors get hot".
Stronger at the expense of precision? If you landed here - start at top of page for more G27 information
Dissect G25 to replace sensor - Youtube Part 1 | Part 2.
A follow up comment notes "the wheel stop (toothed plastic piece) that falls out when you pull the servo motors"
Google 'G27 mods' (and on youtube), there are many, a few of interest....
- Ricmotech's youtube "The right way to take apart and re-assemble the Logitech G25/G27 Pedals"
- G27 shifter mods: * Sequential gate, mounts inside shifter.
Relatively simple and clever idea: image-1 | image-2.
Sold on eBay by virgi_pozu or try this search. * Spring mod for sequential shift - youtube. * (Skateboard) BUSH mod for sequential shift - youtube. * Rubber band mod for sequential shift - youtube. * Add padding for better feel - youtube.
(I used adhesive rubber strips and squashed them in a month) * Another sequential gate plate. "Hi Converter by Ximu"
Watch video on their SimGadgets thread site hiconverter.com.
- BasherBoards FL2 Shifter Adapater - G25/G27 shifter to Fanatec or PC. Website.
- G27 reverse mount pedals - youtube. (Text version on Chilicoke's site site dead Aug 2016. Try archived version @ archive.org, also see Shaun Cole's clip further down.
- G27 shift light mod - the mod itself doesn't interest me, some bits of info may be useful though - youtube.
- G25 eBrake mod - youtube, (Text version on Chilicoke's website site dead Aug 2016. Try archived version @ archive.org). Don't know if this works on G27.
- G27/G25 DIY ghetto brake vibration system forum thread | FergoTech website.
- G27 DIY switches, nothing fancy, I liked the pics wiring through hub. Thread. For me: filed.
- G27 run cable through wheel, by Simulaje youtube (for one of their mods).
- G25 shifter mod by chilicoke - shows a good strip down.
"How to increase G25 shift resistance and push-down reverse". Youtube (& on their website; site dead Aug 2016 try archived version @ archive.org).
Also see OCAU forum thread by Optimus for his strip down & photos. For me: Ma.
G27 quick release options - forum thread.
There are other QR not mentioned in the thread.
Holger Buchfink 50mm and 70mm QR noted on products page.
G27 potentiometers are reportedly 10kOhm 0.5W, they were available from thesimshop.com.
Don't bend the pins if you strip your pots thread.
G27/25 Hall Sensor (replace pots with hall sensor) TotalSpanishSimulator forum thread | Simulaje forum thread
POT REPLACEMENT UPDATE: Thanks to Martijn N for his info and a link from DT.
This is a workaround, not entirely a straight swap.
Digikey.com sells a POT 10K OHM 1/2W CARBON LINEAR - link.
The mounting hole on the G27 pedals appears to be 9mm, it needed drilling out to 9.5mm.
Digikey's pots have a solder type terminal, you'll need to be creative to get the original Logitech lugs to slide on.
An alternative, solder a short wire to the pot, put a female insulated terminal lug on the other end.
While fiddly, it will keep the original Logitech lug intact so they can be plugged into the female lug.
Other than the solder terminal on the Digikey pot and hole size noted by Martijn, he reports they are a 1 on 1 replacement that do the trick.
Martijn also noted to re-use the original retaining clips that sit on the plastic shaft, they are not supplied with the Digikey pots.
The Digikey pots have plastic shafts that the clips can dig into which is reportedly better than alternative metal shaft pots.
Good pics - G27 pot fix for pedals and shifter thread at simracers4life.com. I haven't read it yet. For me: filed.
(See another Shifter fix further down).
Windows 10 issue with Logitech profiler (May 2016)
Link to land here: http://edracing.com/win10g27
Disclaimer: I don't have windows 10 to test any of this.
Windows 10 is reportedly auto-updating LGS and subsequently causing issues for G25/G27 users.
"How to temporarily prevent a Windows or driver update from reinstalling in Windows 10" https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/kb/3073930
Win 10: "Do you want to automatically download manufacturer's apps and custom icons available for your devices"
To avoid this in the future I've read suggestions to turn off the above.
Go to > All Apps > Windows System > Control Panel > Hardware and Sound > Devices and Printers
> Right click your computer icon > Click "Device installation settings" > Tick No
For G25/G27 use Profiler lgs510_x64.exe (64 for 64 bit. 32 bit is named lgs510.exe).
lgs510 is version 5.10 not version 8.xxx which some members are uninstalling. Logitech's download page. (For G29, I believe you'd use LGS 8.xxx)
Roosevelt Simmons posted his "Logitech G27 fix for GT Driving Force Detection (Window 10)" fix on youtube.
NOTE: I can't test these fixes, I don't have Windows 10 nor this problem
A fix posted on Logitech's forum (it's a dead link Aug 2016 - Logi removed the thread?)
Turn off / exit the GS 5.xx software
• Go to - Control Panel / Hardware Sound / Device Manager
• At the bottom of the device list you will probably see a item shown as (Universal Serial Bus Device) This will show you USB devices
• One of them will be the G27 (it might be in another location on that list but usually in (Universal Serial Bus Device)
• Right click on the G27
• Select (update driver software)
• Select (Browse my computer for driver software)
• Select (Let me pick from the list of device drivers on my computer)
• There will be a list of a few things perhaps G27 or even some assistant thing showing up in there (just fyi)
• The one you want is (USB device). This will remove that assistant thing that is creating this paradox.
** NOTE: If there is no choice for a USB device then (uncheck the option for *show compatible devices)
This will show a huge list of manufacturers etc.
From here scroll to the top of the list and select (Standard system devices)
Then on the right you scroll down to select (USB input device)
This will cause the Driving Force which gets selected by the assistant device to be removed and all association with it.
Now the G27 will show up under the (Human Interface Devices) Instead and will work perfectly without forgetting who it is.
Turn on your GS 5.xxx profiler and BOOM all should be well no rebooting and no reloading anything at all. - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
- - - -
An interesting post on Logitech's forum(it's a dead link Aug 2016 - Logi removed the thread?) not necessarily related:
It seems like your computer is detecting a previous device that were installed in your PC.
To solve this problem with your Driving Force GT, you may have to eliminate the ghosted entries on your computer by doing these steps:
1. Launch command prompt (Start > type cmd on the search box). Command box will appear.
2. Run this command: set devmgr_show_nonpresent_devices=1
3. Run this command to start Device Manager from this Command Prompt: devmgmt.msc
4. Once the Device Manager appears, click on View > Show Hidden Devices
5. Unplug the racing wheel.
6. Expand "Human Interface Device" and "Universal Serial Bus Controllers".
7. You will see sub-entries with lighter, transparent icons.
These are called "ghosted devices". Select and delete all of those entries. Just do it one at a time.
8. Uninstall the Logitech Gaming Software v.5.10.127.
9. Perform a clean boot.
10. Reinstall Logitech Gaming Software v.5.10.127.
11. Plug back the racing wheel directly on an active USB 2.0 port. Check if it's properly identified by the Profiler.
12. Revert to normal start-up.
13. Check if the racing wheel is properly identified by the Profiler.
A fix posted by Sam Katakouzinos (iRacing member):
A method that worked for my 'Logitech Driving Force GT' was to:
- not uninstall the new software
- open Device Manager as an Administrator
- find your incorrectly identified Logitech wheel which most likely ends with USB and not the HID one
- choose Action, Update Driver Software,
- then 'Browse my computer for driver software',
- then 'Let me pick from a list of device drivers on my computer',
- then untick 'Show compatible hardware',
- then choose Logitech as the Manufacturer,
- then choose 'Logitech Driving Force GT USB' and not the one that ends with HID.
There are also Logitech G25/27/29 items listed as well.
Most likely you're notified of an impending reboot. Do so.
Like my results, you should find your wheel to be identified correctly and working as it did before the software update.
If you landed here - start at top of page for more G27 information
Double shift issue with sequential paddles - FIX "DEBOUNCE" in iRacing's app.ini config file.
This fix reportedly works with most brands of sequential shifter.
- Close the sim or the sim will overwrite the file
- Open documents/iRacing/
- Make a backup/safe copy of app.ini
- Open app.ini (it probably opens in notepad by default).
- Search for "debounce" change 80 to what works for you. debounceSeq_Ms=80 ; Add delay in Milliseconds to sequential shifter to reduce double shifts
Debounce mentioned in forum thread. What is debounce - same thread different post.
David Tucker's forum post re THINGS THAT COULD GO WRONG (my notes below).
If blowing something with air, be aware of moisture in air compressor, don't want to wet circuitry.
• Slipping Encoder. (See Encoder and sensor links above).
Wheel slowly drifts left/right, eventually you have to steer 90 deg to the left to go straight.
David refers to taking wheel apart and applying some glue/whatever to the encoder wheel so it stops slipping.
The wheel can also be dragging against the optical sensor, or the optical sensor could be loose on the motor, or have bits of dirt in the holes in the encoder wheel, all will give you similar results.
• Burnt/gummy brushes. David's preloved G25; 5+ years old with hard use.
One of the motor brushes was "hung up" no longer making good contact. Blasted out the motor with air, do it outside.
After cleaning everything it started working well. Usually this shows up as a reduction in power.
• Broken gear. Only an expectation that losing even one tooth on a gear would cause the wheel to stop turning all together.
It's possible the wheel will catch occasionally, especially if a gear just split and did not actually lose a tooth.
• Flaky power supply/too much heat. Usually causing wheel to fade out over time. Try another power supply, borrow one.
Excessive dust/smoke (animals, smokers, etc) your wheel could be clogged causing heat issues. Blow it out with air.
• Optional and void warranty. Take wheel apart to inspect for damage. Try Logitech support first, they have been good to me and others in the past.
• Also note. If computer overloaded during race (eg. antivirus running in background) you could experience loss of force, momentary drifting, etc, because the communication between wheel and sim was interrupted. That usually shows up with a drop in frame rate and a red bar on the skew meter.
OTHER POSSIBLE PROBLEMS.
• USB issue and/or conflict.
* Narrow down the problem. Remove all usb devices
from computer, only plug in devices required for driving.
* Plug into USB ports on rear of computer, (I've read to avoid USB3 ports).
* If you must use a USB hub, ensure it is a powered hub & plugged into rear of computer.
* Disabling USB suspend in Windows may help with some issues.
• Cable. Check that everything is plugged in properly. Power point, power supply, back of wheel, usb.
• Pinched wire. Wires damaged by chair casters is common. Check for pinched wires inside wheel & pedals if you have pulled them apart.
• Logitech profiler issues.
* Using specific profiles are reportedly problematic; using GLOBAL settings is recommended.
* If you are having erratic problems, try deleting all profiles from C:/Users/USER-NAME/AppData/Local/Logitech/
* The above helped someone with a wheel that was resetting during a race; also suggested by DT:
* Alt+tab out of iRacing & back in as this often resets the profiler to a known good state.
* Alt+tab out & then open up and close the profiler if the above does not work.
* Note, there have been changes to ALT+TAB behaviour, read more.
• Pedal pot body tabs.
Thanks to Michael C:
Symptom: Seems like a dirty pot but cleaning doesn't fix it.
In Michael's case, the pedal pot body tabs grinded divots into the plastic mounting plate between pot and pedal housing.
This caused the pot to be loose in it's hole and rotate which caused chronic pedal spiking at the low end.
MC's fix: shimming the lugs with a chunk of rubber (it was handy).
G27 shifter won't move sideways. Thanks to Nicholas J for posting his fix.
Cause: The plastic collar at the top of the boot slides down the shaft.
Fix: Slide collar back up shaft with grommet underneath to stop it sliding down again.
The collar
sits at top of boot
here it's missing
it slid down the shaft
slide collar up shaft
grommet top & bottom
on shaft stops it sliding
Logitech G27 pot wiring, source unknown.
Logitech G27 Pedal Pinout, original source unknown.
Thanks to Glenn for finding it.
G27 steering wheel wobble - you've probably got a screw loose... in the wheel too.
Thanks to Dries N for the clip and photo.
DN's wheel had 2 loose screws.
(If not screws, I thought it may have been cracked plastic from reefing on wheel).
Logitech G27 noise - Pietro's photos for fix. For me: filed.
Uploaded by Pietro Mangano.
G27 Noise Problem - grinding or something. - Uploaded by LFS240sxDriftin
Based on comments by David T:
Something has possibly broken off and fallen into the gear train then dragging on a tooth.
You may not be able to fix the broken piece even if you remove it.
This is not a normal failure for the G27. Usually the encoder cracks and falls off the motor.
It's possible the encoder came loose and is dragging on the circuit board making this sound.
"How to clean your pedal potentiometers on Logitech G25/G27 (Spiky pedal fix)"
Uploaded by Adam Maciejewski. I haven't tried it.
"The right way to take apart and re-assemble the Logitech G25/G27 Pedals".
Best advice I've seen. Uploaded by Ricmotech
"Improve the feel of the Logitech G27 Shifter".
Uploaded by Ricmotech
"DIY Pedal Mount for Logitech G27 Pedals" simple & clever ideas.
Uploaded by Shaun Cole @ TheSimPit.com
Logitech G27 "Can you identify this part" source thread.
Not related, kudos to Glenn for a terrific build.
"Sim racing desk with hand controls" found via thread links to an awesome youtube clip.
Late in the clip shows the build process / progress.
Very detailed SRW-S1 on Logitech base build by 'Unicorn Reviews' | Youtube.
I fast forwarded while watching the clip, there is a wealth of information in it.
His files are linked in his description.
Issue with paddle shift - unwanted double shift. Update: See DEBOUNCE ELSEWHERE ON THIS PAGE. Old fix below.
Unless the micro switches need replacing there is a solution using Logitech Profiler.
Instructions sourced from nogripracing forum.
1 - Open Logitech profiler
2 - Create a game profile (click "Profile", then "new", browse to the specific game executable, and give a name to this new profile).
3 - You'll now see a picture of the wheel with all buttons, paddles and stick-shifter.
This "fix" works for any of its buttons, paddles, stick-shifter, even pedals.
Just to illustrate this for an example in the DFP, we'll use the "stick shifter forward" (generally used for downshift).
3.1 - Now mouse over and LMB click the "stick shifter forward", a little menu pops up.
Now select the option "Select Command", then "New Command".
3.2 - A new window pops up... you'll now have to assign a key and a name for the new command.
We'll use the key "M" just for this example. So, for the name, you can put "M" (without the quote marks), same as the key you'll be selecting. Though you may put whatever name you wish ("downshift", etc, etc).
3.3 - Now click in "options" and put a check on the "record pauses", and click "OK" (this is so you can see how long it takes, in seconds, to press and release the key/button).
3.4 - Now, click "Record", and press then release the desired key in your keyboard (for this example it's "M").
You'll want your "press and release" exercise to be between 0.2 and 0.4 seconds (no more, no less).
After this is done, click "OK".
3.5 - All you have to do now is to re-run the game for which you've set the new Logitech profile, and reassign the downshift command again (in that specific game options).
You'll see that, in game, while reassigning your stick-shifter-forward for the downshift, that it is now recognized as "M".
The end result... no more double-downshifts issues, just smooth and precise downshifts!
Profiler image (The ImgShack link in the image is dead - March 2015).
