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   Home      Wheel-Pedals      Logitech_G29
Logitech G920 and G29 steering wheels & pedals
Share an easy link:
G920 G29
Oct 2016 adding note:
I don't own a G29.
I've helped someone fix their G29 issue by swapping USB ports, now using USB2 instead of USB3.

A Logitech G29 overview as I understand ...
  • Use Logitech Gaming Software (LGS) version for G29 (not used with G27).
    I'm told you'll have no FFB without the profiler (LGS) running - I've yet to confirm it.
  • In the LGS "G29" tab, ensure "Wheel Operating Range" is set to 900
  • The FFB information described on my Logitech G27 and FFB pages will help with G29 too.
    Like the G27, I'm told the G29 will calibrate in-sim to less than 900 which results in 1:1 rotation in-sim.
  • David Tucker (iRacing staffer) noted to me that "min force" setting doesn't help this wheel.
    Basically the forces are as good as they can be, quite good in fact.
    He also suggests his force map file (Wheel Profile note on G27 page - will have little impact.
    A friend using a Wheel Profile does like it better.
  • Set damping in-sim between 10 and 15% (see notes on Logitech G27 and FFB pages).
  • Enable Dampen Osillations in-sim.
  • Don't use linear mode.
  • Set the force slider in-sim between 8 and 20 depending on car and track. 12 is a good starting point.
    Also read F9 - FFB AUTO STRENGTH SETTING  on FFB page.

  • G29 pedals may have a higher resolution than G27 pedals
    Yet to confirm, G29 pedals may be 12 bit (0-4095)
  • G29 pedals may or may not need to be depressed once to calibrate - yet to confirm

  • Unlike the G27, the d-pad on G29 and G920 wheels can be pressed left and down at the same time.
    The G27 only allows the d-pad to go left or down at once, so only one button can be held down (there are 4 buttons under the dpad), now you can press left and down together holding down both buttons at once.

  • "Does the wheel have an encoder like the G27? I believe it uses a hall effect sensor like the Thrustmaster and Fanatec wheels. Time will tell if it is more reliable"
  • "Anything about using the shifter? The g27 shifter works out of the box, but the buttons do nothing, the G25 shifter can be used with an adapter (I think, I did not test it)"
  • "What does the rotary dial do? The dial sends out a series of button presses, one set when turning left, another when turning right.  You can map that to the up/down buttons in the black box (or brake bias, etc) and it will allow you to modify a value by spinning the knob."

While I have a G27 it's page is regularly updated.
I don't have a G29 thus content below hasn't been updated recently.
With thanks to David Tucker for his help and photos (below).

Content below created 2015:

June 2015 Logitech's links: G920 Driving Force for PC and XBOX. G29 for PlayStation 3 & 4 and PC.
Prices (when I checked) links above: AUD499 wheel and pedals only. Shifter not included AUD79.95 
Aussies: 10/2015 Harvey Norman & Dick Smith reportedly had specials priced under $300 online.
  • New Page: G29 review by iRacing member Steve C.
  • A member's comparison between G29 & T300RS post (read the rest of the thread too).
  • Calibrate wheel in Windows to work in other games - reported by GPC:
    To calibrate his G29 in windows 7 to work in other games, he calibrated in  'set up usb game controllers'.
    Open windows program list > type in search box: games controllers > open set up usb game controllers > select wheel > properties > settings > calibrate.
    (If you are windows savvy, run joy.cpl, it appears to land in same place).

    David's G29 has been identified as a pre-production model that used the G27 firmware and drivers.
    David was not aware he was testing a pre-production model.
    As David said, "I'm sorry for misleading anyone!"
    The release version of the wheel reportedly uses the same drivers as the G920.
    David had not been able to test a release version of the wheel when I made this update.
    Following content which has been struck out may be inaccurate or at least unknown
    David said: "Basically because the G29 I had used different firmware and possibly electronics then any comparison between the feel or behavior of the three wheels are suspect at best".
    also noted "Neither may be compatible with linux/mac it is hard to say without testing the proper wheel.  The G29 may be compatible in ps3 mode, but I’m not positive."
What to buy
  • The answer is relative to your budget.
    Of the Logitech G29, G920, G27:
    I'd suggest Logitech's G27 if available, you should save money and the shifter included too.
    My Logitech_G27 page is loaded with information and related links.
    When I eventually replace my G27, I'll consider a Thrustmaster T300. (Logitech pedals are reportedly better, also no shifter included).
    (Is there a Thrustmaster office in Australia? Have you had an issue with warranty claims in Aus?).
    If my budget is much higher, I'll consider a Direct Drive Wheel (OSW), they may be offered as plug & play by the time I'm ready.
    Some members prefer Accuforce; there is strong debate about various wheels on iRacing's forum.

    Of the G29 / G920, based on conversation with David T:
  • I would only pick between these based on the need for console compatibility,
    otherwise the G27 is a better deal, at least till the stores stop carrying them.
  • It's a draw between the G29 and G920 - up to you based on your needs and the pros & cons.
  • The G920 has slightly better force feedback and more precise position sensor.
  • The G920 may not be compatible with Mac or Linux at this time.
  • The G29 has more buttons, that cool spin knob (brake bias!) and the shifter indicator.
  • With iRacing's 'min force' slider you can possibly make the G29 behave very similar to a G920.
    They will never be identical but you can reduce the dead zone
    David could hardly tell the difference in practice (see update above). 
    The G920 had a noticeably smaller dead zone but it was not like he was suddenly driving a CSW etc.

With thanks to David Tucker for his personal views and photos (below).
Read more in David's "Wheel Check" thread.
Wheel observations
  • Base appear identical to G27.
  • Optional gear shift has no buttons.
  • Rim isn't easily removed or swapped out.
  • G29 is basically same design as G920 with even more electronics and buttons crammed in.
  • G29 wheel won't run without the electronics in wheel rim being attached.
  • G920 wheel won't run without the electronics in wheel rim being attached.
  • Every button on wheel face (except playstation button) works in iRacing including red spinner.
  • Support for PS4 (g29) and xbox one (g920).
  • G920 has more linear output and a smaller dead zone, the G29 behaves just like a G27.
  • The G920 wheel has 4x the encoder resolution of the G29, yet it does a worse job when creating a damping effect.
  • No shift indicator on G920.
  • Shifter not included with either wheel.
  • Fewer overall buttons.
      G27 (22 total): has 20 buttons and 2 paddles.
      G29 (21 total): 17 buttons, 2 paddles and a spin knob.
      G920 (15 total): 13 buttons and 2 paddles.  Xbox button works in sim.
Wheel rim observations
  • The G29 and G920 rims almost identical. (G920 doesn't have LED shift indicator).
  • Shift light in G29 maps to the same range as G27.
  • Unlike the G27, the d-pad on G29 and G920 wheels can be pressed left and down at the same time.

Removing the wheel rim
  • Rims are much more difficult to remove than before.
  • Undo the usual 6 allen screws from face.
  • Undo 6 tiny screws on the back with jewellers screwdriver to take off from paddle shifter.
  • The button & paddle electronics are all bolted to the back side of the rim with a handful of screws.
    You need to unhook the hook behind the red ring when removing the rim from the wheel base,
    so between removing the 6 screws on the back of the housing and removing the screws that hold the electronics to the back of the wheel rim.
    Also, this is only for the G29, the G920 comes off easily after undoing 5 screws.
    From there you need to strip out all the circuit boards and eventually you will find two screws that mount the button panel to the metal wheel rim.
    Removing these will allow you to completely remove the rim. From there put it all back together and you are ready to mount a new rim in the usual way.
  • When assembling the G29 watch out for the small ps4/pc switch at the top.
    The switch itself is mounted to the wheel rim, but the plastic bit you slide is on the base and they need to line up.
Custom wheel rim
  • You must keep the electronics in the wheel rim connected in order to use the wheel.
    If you swap rims, you need to relocate the circuit board somewhere
    Alternatively completely replace the paddles and buttons; or
    Make a spacer that allows your new rim to sit in front of buttons.
  • G29 and G920 appear to use the same pedals.
  • Look identical to G27 on the outside except for colour.
  • Brake pedal has a two stage progressive feel to it and overall the springs feel much stiffer.
  • The pedals still report a range of 0-255.
  • The pedals work out of the box but they are not precisely calibrated till you push them all the way down.
G27 shifter
  • G27 shifter works, not the buttons.
  • The new buttons on the G29 / G920 wheel face replace the G27 shifter buttons
G27 pedals
  • Work fine.
    • Update: The release version of the G29 reportedly uses the same drivers as the G920
    • Logitech gaming software v8.70.315 (or whatever the current version is).
    • G29 will show up as a G27 in old profiler (version 5.10.127) and can be used to edit macros & adjust wheel parameters.
    • The G920 uses the new LGS software, does not work in the old profiler, if you close LGS iRacing can't see it.
    • With G920 you can adjust the steering wheels degrees of rotation and steering sensitivity in the driver, but nothing else.
    • Buried in the LGS is a parameter called 'steering wheel sensitivity' that defaults to 50% and ranges from 0-100%.
      This adjust the 'linearity' of the wheel without changing the total range.
      So if you set it to 0% then turning the wheel 90 degrees results in a tiny movement in iRacing,
      but turning the wheel 450 degrees turns iRacing's wheel 450 degrees. Going the other way has the opposite effect.
    PS4 switch
    • The PS4 switch puts the wheel in a funky mode.
      If I switch it to PS4 and plug in the USB the computer sees the wheel, but the wheel can't calibrate properly and just keeps resetting itself.
      So there is no secret back door to getting the wheel to behave differently.
    Assorted posts
    • In reply to a user: G920 with no ffb, David T post 4 Oct 15.
      There are two versions of Logitechs software for wheels, the older Logitech Profiler version 5.10.127 and the newer Logitech Gaming Software version 8.74.80. You need the newer one, and make sure you have the latest version. There is also a firmware update hiding in the LGS software for this wheel, click on the gear icon... I don't know what it does, but you probably want to apply it.

      The updater built into the LGS software did not pull the latest version for me, you may need to manually download it from there website.

      The 920 does not have any sort of a mode switch, at least not that I can find, so it should just work out of the box. However you must have the LGS up and running in order to get any force feedback out of the wheel. Also if things are working right then the LGS should see your wheel and show it as an icon in the lower left corner, next to any Logitech keyboards or headsets you may have.

      Try moving the USB plug to a different port, preferably one on the opposite side of the computer (front to back, back to front) since that usually uses a different usb hub. Also try using a USB 2 port if you can find it, sometimes USB3 ports have issues. Look for a black port instead of a blue one. Also moving ports can sometimes force the driver to reinitialize.

      If you have not tried it yet, uninstall and reinstall the LGS software, with the wheel unplugged, and then reboot the computer.

      Finally, watch the wheel when it is calibrating (turning by itself when you plug it in) it should turn all the way to the left then all the way to the right and then back to center. If it stops before centering then that indicates that there was an error and the wheel will not power up the force feedback.

      Further down, post...
      This wheel does not need any min force, in case you are using it.
      Also I have a new damper in testing that will reduce or eliminate the rocking when parked, it won't help if you let go when going straight, but then again why would you do that
    PHOTOS - click for larger image - opens in new window
    Time & idea permitting, I'll do something else with the photos.
    Top of page
    For me to read later: DT damping.

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